Identity & taxonomy
- Scientific name
- Alocasia × amazonica 'Polly' hort.
- Family
- Araceae
- Genus
- Alocasia
- Order
- Alismatales
- IUCN status
- Not Evaluated (NE)
- Wikidata
- Q2832536
- Alocasia × mortfontanensis 'Polly' (the more recent and arguably correct name — most Wikimedia and Kew records have been recategorised to this hybrid epithet)
- Alocasia 'Amazonica' (incorrect — 'Amazonica' refers to the nursery in Miami where the hybrid was popularised, not a wild origin)
- Alocasia Pollyen
- Amazon elephant earen
- African mask planten
- Kris planten
- Elefantöra Pollysv
- Alocasia Pollyno
- Alocasia Pollyda
- Alocasia Pollyfi
- Pfeilblatt 'Polly'de
Cultivated hybrid — not native to any wild range. The presumptive parents (Alocasia longiloba and Alocasia sanderiana) are native to Borneo and the Philippines respectively
How to identify it
Growth habit. Compact clump-forming aroid growing from a thick fleshy rhizome (sometimes called a 'corm', though true corms are dry-storage organs and an Alocasia rhizome is fleshy and active). New leaves emerge tightly rolled from a central crown. Older leaves yellow and abscise as new ones unfurl — a healthy mature plant typically carries only 4–7 leaves at a time. The rhizome offsets readily, producing daughter plants at the soil surface that can be separated for propagation. In long Nordic winters the plant may drop most or all of its leaves and rest as a dormant rhizome until spring.
Leaves. Glossy dark green to near-black sagittate (arrowhead-shaped) leaves 15–30 cm long on petioles 20–40 cm long. Leaf margins are deeply scalloped between the prominent lateral veins, giving the leaf its 'African mask' silhouette. Veins are bright cream to silvery-white, contrasting sharply with the dark blade. The underside is paler with a purplish tint along the midrib in some specimens. Petioles are mottled green and pale.
Flowers. Aroid inflorescence — a 5–10 cm cream-white spadix partly enclosed by a pale green spathe, emerging on a short peduncle from the rhizome. Indoors the plant rarely flowers; when it does, growers usually cut the bloom off to redirect energy to the showier foliage.
- Glossy near-black sagittate leaves with bright cream-white veins.
- Deeply scalloped margin between lateral veins (the 'African mask' silhouette).
- Compact: most plants stay under 60 cm and fit a small windowsill.
- Visible winter dormancy: leaves yellow and abscise even on a healthy plant — the rhizome resprouts in spring.
- Distinct fleshy rhizome at the soil surface, often producing offset 'pups'.
Commonly confused with
Kris plant / Sanderiana
Larger and more elongated leaves with more sharply pointed lobes; longer overall and less stout than 'Polly'. Sanderiana is one parent of 'Polly' so the resemblance is genuine, but pure A. sanderiana is rarer and pricier in shops.
Bambino arrow
Smaller leaves that are narrower and less deeply lobed than 'Polly', staying under 40 cm. Faster offset producer.
Zebra alocasia
Plain glossy green leaves on tall, prominently zebra-striped petioles. Very different visual identity — striped stems are the diagnostic feature, not the leaves.
Caladium / angel wings
Heart-shaped leaves on long thin petioles emerging directly from a tuber, not from a thick fleshy rhizome. Much more dramatic pink/red/white variegation. Goes fully dormant every year.
Care
Light
Bright indirect — east window or 1–2 m back from a south window.
Place 1–2 m back from a south or west window with a sheer curtain, or directly in front of an east window. Direct midday sun bleaches the dark leaves to pale green within days and scorches them within hours in summer. Below ~8,000 lux the plant produces fewer, smaller leaves and skips the spring growth flush entirely. In Nordic winters most apartments fall below this threshold from October through February — a full-spectrum LED at 12 hours/day prevents the worst of the seasonal collapse, though some leaf drop is normal regardless.
Seasonal: Move closer to windows in winter to compensate for short days; pull back in summer to avoid scorch.
Water
When the top 2–3 cm of soil is dry — every 5–10 days in growth.
Alocasia 'Polly' is sensitive in both directions: it will rot in soggy soil and droop dramatically in bone-dry soil. Water thoroughly until water runs from the drainage holes, then empty the saucer. Allow the top 2–3 cm to dry before watering again. Use room-temperature water — cold tap water shocks the rhizome. Tap water mineral buildup causes leaf-edge browning over time; flush the soil thoroughly every 2–3 months or switch to filtered or rainwater.
Seasonal: In winter dormancy, reduce dramatically — every 14–21 days, just enough to keep the rhizome from desiccating. If the plant has dropped all leaves, water only when the soil is fully dry to the bottom of the pot.
Soil
Chunky aroid mix — equal parts potting soil, perlite, and orchid bark.
Use a chunky aroid mix: 1:1:1 potting soil, coarse perlite, and orchid bark. The mix should drain freely within 30 seconds of watering and never feel soupy. A handful of horticultural charcoal helps in larger pots. Avoid heavy peat-only mixes that compact and go anaerobic — Alocasia rhizomes rot quickly in those conditions. Some growers use a 50% inorganic mix (pumice + perlite + bark) for problem plants.
Humidity
60–80 % preferred — struggles below 50 %.
Alocasia 'Polly' is the plant that most often makes new owners admit they need a humidifier. Below 50 % the leaves develop crispy brown edges within weeks; below 40 % the plant rapidly declines. In dry Nordic winter air the only reliable solutions are an actual humidifier running near the plant, or a glass cabinet / propagation box. Misting helps briefly but cannot maintain the 60 %+ ambient humidity the plant prefers. A bathroom or kitchen with frequent steam is a good placement.
Temperature
18–27 °C; damage below 15 °C.
Tropical hybrid with no cold hardiness. Below 15 °C the leaves blacken and abscise. Below 10 °C the rhizome itself can rot. Keep clear of unheated entryways, away from cold glass on winter nights, and away from radiator drafts that desiccate the leaves. Some leaf drop in winter is normal even in ideal temperatures — that's dormancy, not cold damage.
Fertilizer
Half-strength balanced liquid feed every 4–6 weeks in growing season.
A balanced liquid fertiliser (NPK 10-10-10 or 20-20-20) at half label rate, every 4–6 weeks from April through September, supports steady leaf production. Alocasia is sensitive to fertiliser salts — overfeeding causes leaf-edge burn and contributes to the 'mystery decline' that often affects this plant. Flush the soil thoroughly with plain water every 2 months to prevent salt buildup.
Seasonal: No feeding from October through March — the plant is dormant and cannot use the nutrients.
Pruning
Remove yellowing leaves at the petiole base; otherwise minimal.
Alocasia self-prunes — old leaves yellow and abscise on their own. Cut yellowing leaves cleanly at the petiole base with sterile scissors once they are clearly dying; this redirects energy to new growth. Wear gloves — Alocasia sap contains calcium oxalate raphides that cause skin and mucous-membrane irritation. Never cut into the rhizome itself except to divide offsets in spring.
Repotting
Every 2–3 years in spring; tolerates being slightly pot-bound.
Move up by a single pot size when roots fill the pot and the rhizome is producing offsets that crowd the surface. Spring is best, just as new growth resumes. Use a heavy ceramic or terracotta pot with good drainage — top-heavy plants tip light pots. Repotting is also the right moment to divide off rhizome pups for propagation. After repotting, water thoroughly once and then keep on the dry side for 1–2 weeks while the disturbed roots recover.
Rhizome division (offset separation)
easy~Established in 4–8 weeksThe reliable method. In spring, unpot a mature plant and gently brush soil from the rhizome to expose the offset 'pups'. Each pup that has its own roots and at least one leaf can be separated with a clean sharp knife and potted up in fresh aroid mix. Wear gloves — the sap is irritating. Keep the divisions warm (22–25 °C), bright indirect, and barely moist for the first month while new roots establish. Each plant typically produces 1–3 dividable pups per year.
Bulbil / corm propagation
moderate~Sprouts in 6–12 weeksAlocasia produces small round bulbils ('corms') on the rhizome. Carefully detach mature bulbils — they should come off with light pressure and feel firm. Place each bulbil pointed-end-up in damp sphagnum moss inside a sealed container, in bright indirect light at 22–25 °C. A leaf and roots emerge in 6–12 weeks. Pot up once the leaf is fully expanded.
Cultivars
'Polly'
The standard supermarket form: compact (30–60 cm), with deeply lobed, near-black sagittate leaves and bold creamy-white veins. The cultivar most people call 'Alocasia amazonica'.
'Bambino'
Smaller, narrower form: leaves more elongated and less deeply lobed than 'Polly', staying under 40 cm. Often confused with Alocasia sanderiana 'Nobilis'.
'Polly' variegata
Rare albino-variegated sport with cream/white sectors. Slow, weak, and difficult — collector territory only.
Common problems
Yellow leaves dropping in autumn / winter
Symptom
Multiple leaves yellow and drop in late autumn through winter; sometimes the plant loses every leaf and appears 'dead'.
Cause
Natural seasonal dormancy. Alocasia 'Polly' responds to short days and lower light by drawing nutrients back into the rhizome and shedding leaves. The rhizome stays alive underground.
Fix
Reduce watering dramatically (every 14–21 days, just enough to keep the rhizome from desiccating). Stop fertilising. Move to the brightest available spot. Keep at 18–22 °C. New shoots emerge from the rhizome in March–April when day length increases. If you carefully unpot the plant and the rhizome is firm and pale-cream inside, it is alive — be patient.
Crispy brown leaf edges
Symptom
Leaf edges and tips turn pale brown and crispy; progresses inward over weeks.
Cause
Low humidity (the most common cause), tap water minerals, or fertiliser salt buildup.
Fix
Run a humidifier near the plant; aim for 60 %+ ambient humidity. Switch to filtered or rainwater. Flush the soil thoroughly every 2–3 months to wash out fertiliser salts. Trim browned tips at an angle for cosmetic effect; new leaves emerge clean once conditions improve.
Full guide: Why Are My Plant's Leaf Tips Turning Brown? Diagnosis GuideSoft mushy stem at soil line and yellow leaves all at once
Symptom
Petioles go soft, dark, and translucent at the soil line; leaves yellow and droop together; foul smell from the rhizome.
Cause
Rhizome rot from chronic overwatering, especially in cool conditions. Alocasia is one of the most rot-prone aroids — the fleshy rhizome holds water and goes anaerobic quickly in soggy soil.
Fix
Unpot immediately. Wash all soil off the rhizome under running water and inspect: cut away any soft, dark, or smelly tissue with a sterilised knife back to firm pale-cream flesh. Dust the cuts with cinnamon or a fungicide. Air-dry for 24 hours, then repot in a chunkier well-draining mix. Water sparingly until new roots establish. Always wear gloves. Rescue rates are surprisingly high if at least some firm rhizome remains.
Full guide: Mushy Black Stems on Houseplants: Stem Rot vs Cold Damage vs SunburnWebbing under leaves and stippled foliage
Symptom
Fine pale stippling on the upper leaf surface; very fine webbing underneath; leaves go dull and may drop.
Cause
Spider mites. Dry indoor air during winter heating season is their ideal habitat, and Alocasia 'Polly' is one of their preferred targets.
Fix
Rinse the plant thoroughly under a tepid shower, paying attention to leaf undersides. Treat with neem oil or insecticidal soap weekly for 3 weeks. Raise humidity around the plant — spider mites struggle above 60 % humidity. Quarantine from other plants until the infestation is confirmed cleared.
Full guide: Spider Mites on Houseplants: Identify Webbing, Damage, and How to Kill ThemPlant produces only one leaf at a time
Symptom
A new leaf unfurls; the oldest leaf yellows and drops shortly after. Plant never has more than 3–4 leaves.
Cause
Insufficient light. Alocasia in low light sustains a baseline 'one-in, one-out' leaf budget rather than building a full canopy.
Fix
Move closer to a window or add a full-spectrum grow light at 12 hours/day. Within 2–3 months the plant should start retaining leaves and producing new ones at a faster rate. Some old-leaf shedding is normal even in good light — healthy mature plants typically carry 4–7 leaves.
- Spider mites (the dominant pest in dry rooms)
- Mealybugs
- Thrips
- Scale insects
- Rhizome rot (overwatering)
- Bacterial leaf spot (Erwinia / Xanthomonas)
Toxicity & safety
Chewing the plant releases needle-sharp calcium oxalate raphides into the mouth, causing immediate intense burning, swelling of the lips, tongue, and throat, drooling, and difficulty speaking. Sap on skin causes contact dermatitis. Severe cases (rare) can include airway swelling. The condition is painful but very rarely life-threatening; symptoms typically resolve within hours with cold liquids and rinsing.
Mechanism: Insoluble calcium oxalate raphides physically penetrate mucosa and release proteolytic enzymes.
Alocasia toxicity — NCBI / Plants For A FutureOral irritation, intense burning of mouth, lips, and tongue; excessive drooling; vomiting; difficulty swallowing. Severe airway swelling possible (rare). Symptoms typically appear within minutes of chewing.
Mechanism: Insoluble calcium oxalate raphides physically penetrate oral mucosa.
Elephant Ear (Alocasia) — ASPCA Toxic and Non-Toxic PlantsOral irritation, intense burning of mouth, lips, and tongue; excessive drooling; vomiting; difficulty swallowing.
Mechanism: Insoluble calcium oxalate raphides physically penetrate oral mucosa.
Elephant Ear (Alocasia) — ASPCA Toxic and Non-Toxic PlantsThe 'Amazonica' name has nothing to do with the Amazon rainforest. The hybrid was popularised in the 1950s by Salvadore Mauro at his nursery 'Amazon Nursery' in Miami, Florida. The presumed parents (Alocasia longiloba and Alocasia sanderiana) are both Southeast Asian, native to Borneo and the Philippines. The cultivar name 'Polly' was introduced by a later grower as a smaller, more compact selection. Modern taxonomic work has begun reassigning the hybrid to Alocasia × mortfontanensis, but 'Alocasia × amazonica' remains overwhelmingly dominant in the plant trade.
Frequently asked · 6
Is Alocasia 'Polly' safe for cats and dogs?+
No — ASPCA lists Alocasia as toxic to cats, dogs, and horses. All parts contain calcium oxalate raphides — needle-sharp crystals that physically penetrate the oral mucosa when chewed, causing immediate intense burning, drooling, vomiting, and swelling of the lips and tongue. Severe airway swelling is possible but rare. If your pet chews the plant, rinse their mouth with cold water and contact a vet. Keep well out of reach of chewing pets. Consider a pet-safe alternative like Peperomia obtusifolia, Calathea, or true Boston fern.
Why is my Alocasia 'Polly' losing all its leaves in winter?+
This is almost always natural dormancy, not death. Alocasia 'Polly' responds to short Nordic winter days by drawing nutrients back into its rhizome and dropping leaves — sometimes all of them. The rhizome stays alive underground and resprouts in March–April when day length increases. Reduce watering dramatically (every 14–21 days), stop fertilising, keep the pot at 18–22 °C, and place in the brightest available spot. To check the rhizome is alive, gently lift one side: a firm, pale-cream rhizome is healthy. Add a humidifier and grow light to mitigate dormancy in subsequent winters.
How often should I water an Alocasia 'Polly'?+
When the top 2–3 cm of soil is dry — typically every 5–10 days in summer, every 10–14 days in mild winter, and every 14–21 days during full dormancy. Alocasia rots quickly in soggy soil but droops dramatically in bone-dry soil. Water thoroughly until water runs from the drainage holes, then empty the saucer. Use room-temperature filtered or rainwater — cold tap water shocks the rhizome and tap minerals cause leaf-edge browning over time. Flush the soil thoroughly every 2–3 months.
Why do my Alocasia 'Polly' leaves have crispy brown edges?+
Almost always low humidity. Alocasia 'Polly' wants 60 %+ ambient humidity and develops crispy edges within weeks below 50 %. In dry Nordic apartments during winter heating, run a humidifier near the plant or move to a steamier bathroom. Misting helps briefly but cannot substitute for ambient humidity. Other contributors: tap water mineral buildup (switch to filtered/rainwater), and fertiliser salt buildup (flush soil every 2–3 months). New leaves emerge clean once conditions improve; trim existing browned tips at an angle for cosmetic effect.
How do I propagate Alocasia 'Polly'?+
Rhizome division is the only reliable method. In spring, unpot a mature plant and gently brush soil from the rhizome to expose the offset 'pups' that have formed. Each pup with its own roots and at least one leaf can be separated with a clean sharp knife and potted up in fresh aroid mix. Wear gloves — the sap is irritating. Keep divisions warm (22–25 °C), bright indirect, and barely moist for the first month. Each parent plant typically produces 1–3 dividable pups per year. Stem cuttings do not work — Alocasia has no woody stem to cut. Bulbils on the rhizome can also be sprouted in damp sphagnum moss.
Why are the leaves on my Alocasia turning yellow?+
Several possible causes. (1) Natural leaf turnover — Alocasia carries only 4–7 leaves at a time and constantly cycles oldest leaves; the lowest 1–2 yellow as new ones emerge. (2) Winter dormancy — autumn/winter yellowing is normal seasonal behaviour. (3) Overwatering — the most dangerous cause; the rhizome is rot-prone and yellow leaves with a soft mushy petiole base mean rot. Unpot, inspect the rhizome, cut away any soft tissue, and repot in fresh chunky mix. (4) Cold drafts — keep above 15 °C. If only old leaves yellow and new ones keep coming, the plant is fine.
- Are Houseplants Toxic to Cats and Dogs? A Quick-Scan Safety Guide
- My Cat or Dog Just Ate a Houseplant — What to Do Right Now
- Why Are My Plant's Leaf Tips Turning Brown? Diagnosis Guide
- Spider Mites on Houseplants: Identify Webbing, Damage, and How to Kill Them
- Mushy Black Stems on Houseplants: Stem Rot vs Cold Damage vs Sunburn