Identity & taxonomy
- Scientific name
- Ficus lyrata Warb.
- Family
- Moraceae
- Genus
- Ficus
- Order
- Rosales
- Wikidata
- Q2245089
- Ficus pandurata Sander
- Fiddle leaf figen
- Fiddle-leaf figen
- Banjo figen
- Lyre-leaf figen
- Fiolfikussv
- Fiolfikenno
- Violinfigenda
- Viulufiikusfi
- Geigenfeigede
Cameroon · Gabon · Republic of the Congo · Democratic Republic of the Congo · Sierra Leone
How to identify it
Growth habit. Single-stemmed evergreen tree with an upright habit, branching only after the main stem is notched or the apical bud is removed. In native range it germinates as a hemiepiphyte on another tree, eventually dropping aerial roots to the ground and strangling its host; indoors, the aerial-root habit is almost never expressed.
Leaves. Large, leathery, deeply glossy leaves 25–40 cm long and 15–25 cm wide, with the characteristic lyre or fiddle shape — broad at the apex, constricted in the middle, and widened again at the base. Veins are prominent and pale against a dark green surface. Young leaves emerge from a pointed pink-to-bronze sheath at the stem tip.
Flowers. Flowers are enclosed inside the fig (syconium) and are never produced indoors; they require a specific pollinating wasp (Agaonidae) absent outside native range.
Fruit. Small round green figs 2–3 cm across, only produced on mature specimens in the wild. Not edible and not borne indoors.
- Leaves are broader at the apex than the base — the defining 'fiddle' silhouette.
- Very pale, prominent lateral veins against a dark glossy surface.
- New leaves emerge wrapped in a salmon-pink stipule that falls away as the leaf unfurls.
- Stems exude a thick white latex sap when cut or broken.
- Growth is typically apically dominant — the plant grows up, not out, unless pruned or damaged.
Commonly confused with
Banyan fig / Audrey ficus
Lighter matte green leaves with a pointed tip, less constricted in the middle, and more oval overall. Generally more forgiving of low light than Ficus lyrata.
Rubber plant
Leaves are elliptical and uniform in width, not constricted at the middle. Rubber plant tolerates more shade and is significantly more forgiving indoors.
Council tree
Larger, rounder, less glossy leaves with a subtle yellow midrib. Branches more readily than Ficus lyrata and forms a multi-stemmed habit sooner.
Care
Light
As much bright indirect light as the room allows.
Fiddle leaf fig is a canopy tree — indoors it wants the brightest spot you can give it. Place directly beside a large south or west window (sheer curtain in the hottest afternoon hours), or within 1 m of an east window with unblocked sky exposure. New leaves emerge small and pale in insufficient light, and lower leaves drop first when the light budget is too thin.
Seasonal: Nordic latitudes above ~55°N: supplement with a 15–30 W full-spectrum LED for 10–12 hours/day from October through March to prevent winter leaf drop.
Water
When the top 3–4 cm of soil feels dry.
Water thoroughly until it drains from the bottom, then empty the saucer. Ficus lyrata is extremely sensitive to both under- and over-watering — keep a consistent rhythm rather than reacting to visible stress. Use tepid water; cold water on the roots triggers leaf spotting in some specimens.
Seasonal: Stretch intervals by roughly a third from November to February.
Soil
Well-drained, chunky peat-free potting mix.
A mix of 3 parts quality peat-free potting soil, 1 part perlite, and 1 part orchid bark holds the right balance of moisture and air. Waterlogged soil is the single biggest killer of indoor Ficus lyrata; compacted, pure-peat mixes force the grower toward under-watering as a compensation.
Humidity
40–60 %.
Modest humidity is enough. Very dry rooms (below 30 %) increase the rate of brown edge spotting in winter; a humidifier nearby is more effective than misting, which only wets the leaves and invites bacterial leaf spot.
Temperature
18–27 °C.
Keep away from cold window glass in winter and from draughts from doors, radiators, and air conditioners year-round. Cold stress produces dark brown irregular blotches along the midrib within days.
Fertilizer
Balanced liquid feed monthly in spring and summer, at half strength.
A balanced NPK (3-1-2 or 20-20-20) at half the label rate, applied to already-moist soil, is ample. A higher-nitrogen feed in early spring supports the new flush of leaves. Stop feeding when growth pauses in late autumn.
Seasonal: Skip feeding from late October through February.
Pruning
Prune in spring to control height and encourage branching.
Cut the main stem 0.5–1 cm above a node to encourage two or more side branches. The plant will bleed white latex for several minutes — wipe with a dry cloth; do not seal. Wear gloves and wash cutting tools afterwards, since the latex is a skin irritant for some people.
Repotting
Every 2–3 years, or when roots circle the pot bottom.
Move up by one pot size (3–5 cm wider). Large specimens that are too heavy to repot can be top-dressed instead — scoop out the top 5 cm of old soil and replace with fresh mix every spring.
Stem cutting in water
moderate~6–10 weeksTake a cutting 15–25 cm long with 2–4 leaves. Let the cut end air-dry for 30 minutes to close the latex wound, then place in a jar of tepid water in bright indirect light. Change the water weekly. Pot up once roots reach 5–8 cm.
Air layering
moderate~6–12 weeksThe most reliable method for tall, leggy specimens. Make a shallow upward cut about a third of the way through the stem below the canopy, wedge it open with a toothpick, wrap in moist sphagnum moss, and seal with plastic wrap. Once roots fill the moss ball, cut below and pot up.
Single-leaf cutting
difficult~12+ weeks, often failsA leaf with a short stub of stem (and a node) will sometimes root in water or moist perlite, but will not grow a new shoot without a dormant bud. Most single-leaf cuttings stall at 'rooted leaf' indefinitely.
Cultivars
'Bambino'
Compact sport with smaller, more rounded leaves that stay under 20 cm. Naturally bushier habit; tops out around 1–1.5 m indoors — the practical choice for apartments.
'Compacta'
Densely foliated dwarf form with leaves packed closer along the stem. Similar size to 'Bambino' but less rounded and more like a scaled-down species form.
'Variegata'
Uncommon variegated cultivar with creamy white margins or sectoral variegation on green leaves. Considerably slower-growing and more light-demanding than the plain species.
Common problems
Brown spots on leaves
Symptom
Irregular dark brown patches, often starting at the leaf edge or midrib.
Cause
Overwatering or root rot if spots are soft and spreading; underwatering if spots are crisp and confined to leaf edges; cold draft or sudden temperature drop if the patches appear after a weather change.
Fix
Check the root ball first: unpot and inspect for mushy blackened roots. Trim affected roots, repot in fresh mix, and let the soil dry out slightly before resuming the normal watering rhythm. If roots are healthy, move the plant away from cold windows and heating/cooling vents.
Leaf drop (bottom leaves falling)
Symptom
Older leaves yellow and drop one by one from the bottom of the plant.
Cause
Insufficient light is the most common cause; secondary causes are any environmental shock (new location, cold draft, sudden temperature change, a move to a new home).
Fix
Move to a brighter spot and commit to leaving it there — Ficus lyrata hates being relocated and will drop leaves in protest even at the right light level. Give the plant 4–6 weeks to acclimate before judging the new location.
Small, pale new leaves
Symptom
New leaves emerge noticeably smaller or paler than existing foliage.
Cause
Insufficient light budget — the plant is growing, but on a depleted energy balance.
Fix
Increase light: move within 1 m of the brightest window in the home, or add a 15–30 W full-spectrum LED overhead for 10–12 hours/day. New leaves at full size should follow within one growth cycle.
Red spots on new leaves
Symptom
Small reddish-brown spots on the newest leaves; does not spread to older foliage.
Cause
Oedema — cells burst because the plant was overwatered while light and transpiration were low. Most common in winter.
Fix
Let the soil dry slightly more between waterings during low-light months. The spots are cosmetic and do not kill the leaf; new leaves grown under steadier conditions will come in clean.
- Spider mites
- Mealybugs
- Scale
- Thrips
- Root rot (Phytophthora, Pythium)
- Bacterial leaf spot
Toxicity & safety
Milky latex sap can cause skin irritation and contact dermatitis in sensitive individuals. Ingestion causes mild oral and gastric irritation.
Mechanism: Ficin and ficusin in the latex; mild proteolytic enzyme irritation.
Ficus lyrata — Missouri Botanical Garden Plant FinderVomiting, drooling, oral irritation, and occasionally diarrhoea after ingestion. Skin contact with sap can cause irritation.
Fiddle-Leaf Fig — ASPCA Toxic and Non-Toxic PlantsVomiting, drooling, oral irritation, and mild skin inflammation on contact with latex.
Fiddle-Leaf Fig — ASPCA Toxic and Non-Toxic PlantsFicus lyrata was obscure in Western horticulture until ~2010, when it became the defining 'Instagram plant' — shot in countless interiors and credited with a decade-long revival of tropical foliage houseplants. The plant itself is the same species botanists have been describing since Warburg published it in 1894; only its social context changed.
Frequently asked · 5
Is fiddle leaf fig toxic to cats and dogs?+
Yes — ASPCA lists Ficus lyrata as toxic to cats and dogs. The milky latex contains ficin and ficusin, which cause vomiting, drooling, oral irritation, and occasionally contact dermatitis. Keep the plant out of reach of pets and wipe up any sap after pruning.
Why does my fiddle leaf fig drop leaves whenever I move it?+
Ficus lyrata is unusually sensitive to environmental change. Moving the plant alters its light angle, airflow, and sometimes humidity — and the plant responds by dropping older leaves while it recalibrates. Pick a permanent spot and leave it for at least 4–6 weeks before judging whether that location works.
How much light does a fiddle leaf fig need?+
More than you probably think. Aim for 15,000–25,000 lux — within 1 m of a south or west window, or immediately beside an unblocked east window. New leaves coming in small and pale is the clearest sign the plant needs a brighter spot. In Nordic winters, a full-spectrum LED overhead is effectively mandatory above ~55°N.
What are the brown spots on my fiddle leaf fig?+
Soft, spreading brown spots usually indicate overwatering or root rot — check the root ball for mushy dark roots. Dry, crisp brown edges point to under-watering or low humidity. Blotches that follow a cold snap are cold stress — move the plant away from cold window glass and draughts.
How do I propagate a fiddle leaf fig?+
The two reliable methods are water-rooted stem cuttings (take a 15–25 cm tip cutting, air-dry the latex, root in tepid water — 6–10 weeks) and air layering on tall stems (wound the stem, wrap in moist sphagnum, wait 6–12 weeks). Single-leaf cuttings will root but will not produce a new shoot and rarely grow into a plant.