Identity & taxonomy
- Scientific name
- Ficus elastica Roxb. ex Hornem.
- Family
- Moraceae
- Genus
- Ficus
- Order
- Rosales
- Wikidata
- Q147821
- Ficus elastica Roxb.
- Ficus cordata Kunth & C.D.Bouché
- Rubber planten
- Rubber figen
- Indian rubber treeen
- Rubber bushen
- Fikussv
- Gummifikenno
- Gummifigenda
- Kumifikusfi
- Gummibaumde
Northeastern India · Bhutan · Nepal · Myanmar · Southern China (Yunnan) · Malaysia · Indonesia (Sumatra, Java)
How to identify it
Growth habit. Upright single-stemmed tree indoors; in native range a hemiepiphytic strangler that germinates in the fork of a host tree and drops aerial roots to the ground, eventually enveloping the host. Indoor specimens branch sparingly unless the apical bud is removed.
Leaves. Large, thick, leathery, shiny elliptical leaves 20–35 cm long and 8–15 cm wide, with a short abrupt tip. New leaves emerge tightly rolled inside a bright pink-to-red stipule (the 'sheath') that persists briefly after the leaf unfurls. Species form is uniformly dark green; cultivars range from near-black burgundy to cream-variegated or tricoloured.
Flowers. Small greenish flowers enclosed inside figs (syconia); not produced indoors. Pollination requires the specific fig wasp Blastophaga elastica.
Fruit. Small, greenish-yellow figs about 1 cm across, produced only on mature wild trees. Not borne indoors.
- Thick leathery oval leaves with a uniform width — no fiddle-shaped constriction.
- Bright pink to red stipule on every new leaf, which sheds as the leaf opens.
- Thick white latex sap oozes from any broken stem or leaf.
- Prominent pale midrib on the leaf underside; lateral veins faint.
- Mature outdoor specimens develop aerial roots from branches, which thicken into prop roots.
Commonly confused with
Fiddle leaf fig
Leaves are fiddle- or violin-shaped — wider at the apex and constricted in the middle. Ficus elastica leaves are uniformly elliptical.
Banyan fig / Audrey ficus
Matte (not glossy) lighter-green leaves with a more pronounced point; also more prone to branching from a young age.
Council tree
Broader, rounder leaves with a yellowish midrib; often sold in variegated form that can be mistaken for Ficus elastica 'Tineke'.
Care
Light
Bright indirect light preferred; tolerates medium light.
Place within 1–2 m of a south or east window. Variegated cultivars (Tineke, Ruby, Shivereana) need the bright end of this range to hold their variegation — in low light they push plain green new leaves and eventually revert. Direct summer sun through glass can scorch the leaves; filter with a sheer curtain.
Seasonal: Nordic winters above ~55°N: add a full-spectrum LED for 8–10 hours/day from October through March, especially for variegated cultivars.
Water
When the top 3–4 cm of soil feels dry.
Water thoroughly until runoff, then empty the saucer. Ficus elastica tolerates drying out more than many houseplants and punishes overwatering harshly with sudden leaf drop. Use tepid water.
Seasonal: Cut frequency by roughly half from November to February.
Soil
Well-drained peat-free potting mix with added perlite.
A mix of 3 parts quality peat-free potting soil to 1 part perlite works well. Avoid heavy garden soil and waterlogged mixes — the thick fleshy roots rot fast in anaerobic conditions.
Humidity
40–60 %; tolerates lower.
Normal indoor humidity is enough. Misting is more cosmetic than useful and can leave water spots on the glossy leaves; wipe leaves monthly with a soft damp cloth instead.
Temperature
16–27 °C.
Cold draughts and prolonged exposure below 10 °C cause irregular dark patches and leaf drop. Keep away from cold window glass and from direct flow of heating or cooling vents.
Fertilizer
Balanced liquid feed monthly in spring and summer, at half strength.
A balanced NPK (3-1-2 or 20-20-20) at half the label rate is ample. Overfeeding produces crispy leaf edges and salt crust on the soil surface.
Seasonal: Skip feeding from late October through February.
Pruning
Prune in spring to control height and encourage branching.
Cut the main stem 0.5–1 cm above a leaf node; the plant will bleed white latex for several minutes. Two or more side branches typically emerge below the cut within 4–8 weeks. The sap is a skin irritant for some people — wear gloves and avoid getting latex on fabric, where it stains permanently.
Repotting
Every 2–3 years, or when roots circle the pot bottom.
Move up by one pot size (3–5 cm wider). Very large specimens can be top-dressed instead. Best repotted in early spring as new growth resumes.
Stem cutting in water
easy~4–8 weeksTake a 15–20 cm tip cutting with 3–4 leaves. Let the cut end air-dry for 20–30 minutes to seal the latex, then place in tepid water in bright indirect light. Change water weekly. Pot up once roots reach 5 cm.
Air layering
moderate~6–10 weeksThe method of choice for salvaging tall, leggy plants. Wound the stem below the canopy, wrap in moist sphagnum sealed in plastic, and cut below the new root mass once roots fill the moss.
Leaf-and-node cutting
moderate~6–12 weeksA single leaf with a 2–3 cm stub of stem that includes a dormant bud can be rooted in moist perlite or sphagnum. More reliable than a true single-leaf cutting because the axillary bud produces the new shoot.
Cultivars
'Robusta'
The standard green cultivar: large, thick, uniformly dark-green elliptical leaves. The toughest form, widely sold as the default rubber plant.
'Burgundy'
Leaves mature to a deep near-black burgundy with a pink-to-red midrib. Needs slightly brighter light than 'Robusta' to hold the darkest colour.
'Tineke'
Variegated cultivar with cream-white leaf margins marbled into pale green centres; new leaves emerge with pink undertones inside the pink stipule.
'Ruby'
Tricoloured variegation: green centre, cream edge, and bright pink suffusion across the new leaves. Slower-growing than 'Tineke' and noticeably more light-demanding.
'Shivereana'
Green leaves heavily speckled and splashed with cream-to-yellow variegation. Unstable — reverts readily to plain green unless kept in strong light.
Common problems
Leaf drop
Symptom
Otherwise healthy-looking leaves yellow and fall, often several at a time.
Cause
The plant's generic stress response. Triggers include overwatering, a move to a new location, a sudden cold draught, or a dramatic light change.
Fix
Check soil moisture first — if the top 3–4 cm is still damp and leaves are dropping, stop watering and let the soil dry out further. Avoid moving the plant while it recovers. Expect 4–6 weeks to stabilise after any environmental change.
Reverting to green (variegated cultivars)
Symptom
New leaves on 'Tineke' or 'Ruby' emerge mostly or fully green.
Cause
Insufficient light for the variegated cultivar's slower photosynthesis.
Fix
Move to brighter light (near an east or south window). Prune off fully-green branches back to the last variegated node — if left, they will out-compete the variegated growth. A grow light helps in Nordic winters.
Droopy leaves with soft soil
Symptom
Leaves hang limp; soil is still wet when checked.
Cause
Overwatering — roots are suffocating or beginning to rot.
Fix
Unpot, inspect roots, trim any mushy blackened sections, repot in fresh free-draining mix, and let the top 3–4 cm dry before watering again. Ficus elastica recovers well from mild rot if caught early.
Latex sap stains and skin irritation
Symptom
Pruning or accidental damage releases a thick white sap that stains fabric and irritates skin.
Cause
Natural latex exudate — Ficus elastica was once a commercial rubber source.
Fix
Wear gloves when pruning. Wipe fresh sap off the plant with a dry cloth; do not seal the cut. On skin, wash with soap and water. On fabric, the latex is effectively permanent once dry — protect clothing before cutting.
- Spider mites
- Mealybugs
- Scale
- Thrips
- Root rot (Phytophthora, Pythium)
- Botrytis leaf spot
Toxicity & safety
The latex sap can cause contact dermatitis in sensitive individuals and is a known allergen for people with latex allergy. Ingestion causes mild oral and gastric irritation.
Mechanism: Ficin proteolytic enzyme and 1,4-cis-polyisoprene (natural rubber latex).
Ficus elastica — Missouri Botanical Garden Plant FinderVomiting, drooling, and oral irritation after ingestion; skin inflammation on contact with the latex.
Rubber Plant — ASPCA Toxic and Non-Toxic PlantsVomiting, drooling, oral irritation, and mild skin inflammation on contact with latex.
Rubber Plant — ASPCA Toxic and Non-Toxic PlantsFicus elastica was the world's main commercial rubber source from the early 1800s until around 1900, when it was overtaken by the South American Hevea brasiliensis — a faster-yielding species that quickly came to dominate plantation agriculture. Today, the only surviving industrial use of Ficus elastica is decorative: indoor houseplants.
Frequently asked · 5
Is a rubber plant toxic to cats and dogs?+
Yes — ASPCA lists Ficus elastica as toxic to cats and dogs. The latex sap contains ficin and natural rubber compounds that cause vomiting, drooling, oral irritation, and contact dermatitis. Keep pruning cuttings and fallen leaves away from pets.
Why is my rubber plant dropping leaves?+
Leaf drop is Ficus elastica's generic stress response. Most common cause: overwatering (check that the top 3–4 cm of soil is dry before watering). Secondary causes: a move to a new location, cold draughts, or a dramatic light change. Stabilise conditions and wait 4–6 weeks before judging.
How do I keep my variegated rubber plant from reverting?+
Variegated cultivars like 'Tineke' and 'Ruby' lose variegation in low light — move to bright indirect light and prune off any fully-green shoots back to the last variegated node, since green shoots will otherwise dominate and push out the variegated growth. A grow light is helpful in Nordic winters.
Can I cut my rubber plant to make it branch?+
Yes — cutting the main stem 0.5–1 cm above a leaf node in spring reliably produces 2–4 new branches below the cut within 4–8 weeks. Wear gloves, have a cloth ready for the latex sap (which stains fabric permanently), and use the cut piece as a propagation cutting.
What's the difference between a rubber plant and a fiddle leaf fig?+
Both are Ficus species, but Ficus elastica has thick, glossy, uniformly elliptical leaves while Ficus lyrata has large violin-shaped leaves that are constricted in the middle and wider at the apex. Ficus elastica is markedly more forgiving of low light and inconsistent watering — the usual recommendation after a fiddle leaf fig dies.