Identity & taxonomy
- Scientific name
- Monstera adansonii Schott
- Family
- Araceae
- Genus
- Monstera
- Order
- Alismatales
- IUCN status
- Least Concern (LC)
- Wikidata
- Q6900015
- Monstera friedrichsthalii Schott (the narrow-leaved form sometimes treated separately)
- Monstera pertusa (L.) de Vriese (older synonym)
- Calla pertusa L.
- Swiss cheese vineen
- Adanson's monsteraen
- Monkey mask planten
- Five-holes planten
- Monstera adansoniisv
- Hullplante (auct.)no
- Monstera adansoniino
- Monstera adansoniida
- Monstera adansoniifi
- Fensterblatt 'Adansonii'de
Central and South America — Mexico through Central America to northern South America (Colombia, Venezuela, Brazil), and the Caribbean
How to identify it
Growth habit. Vigorous vining/climbing aroid. In the wild, climbs tree trunks via thick aerial roots, eventually reaching the canopy. Indoors trailing from a hanging pot OR climbing a moss pole — and the difference matters: poled plants produce progressively larger, more heavily fenestrated leaves as the stem climbs (a phenomenon called 'leaf metamorphosis' driven by phototropic and contact cues), while trailing plants produce small juvenile-form leaves indefinitely. Each leaf emerges from a single node; mature stems produce thick aerial roots from each node that anchor the plant to its support.
Leaves. Oval-to-elliptic mid-to-dark green glossy leaves 10–25 cm long (juvenile) to 30–50 cm long (mature, on a pole) on petioles 10–25 cm long. The diagnostic feature is OVAL FENESTRATIONS — closed holes in the leaf blade, typically 4–10 per leaf in juvenile growth, 10–20+ in mature growth. Fenestrations are oval to nearly round, never extending to the leaf margin (i.e., not splits). Leaves are slightly asymmetric and curve downward at the tip. New leaves emerge tightly rolled and unfurl over 1–2 days; juvenile leaves often have no fenestrations at all.
Flowers. Aroid spathe-and-spadix; rare indoors. Cream-white spathe and yellow spadix.
- Oval fenestrations (closed holes) in mature leaves — never deep splits to the margin.
- Vining/climbing habit with thick aerial roots from each node.
- Vigorous fast growth — 1–2 new leaves per month under good conditions.
- Smaller, narrower leaves than M. deliciosa even at maturity.
- Asymmetric leaf shape with downward-curving tip.
Commonly confused with
Swiss cheese plant
Larger plant with much larger leaves (40–90 cm at maturity vs 30–50 cm for adansonii). Mature M. deliciosa leaves have DEEP SPLITS extending to the leaf margin, not just closed oval holes. Self-supporting on a thick stem with shorter internodes; less aggressively vining.
Obliqua / Peruvian obliqua
Famously rare — most plants sold as 'obliqua' are actually adansonii. Real obliqua has paper-thin leaves with MORE HOLE THAN LEAF (fenestrations occupy 50–90 % of the blade), and produces stolons that adansonii does not. Real obliqua is extremely difficult to grow and remains a botanical-garden specialty. If a 'Monstera obliqua' costs less than €500, it is almost certainly mislabelled adansonii.
Silver Monstera / Siltepecana
Juvenile leaves are silvery-green with darker venation and NO fenestrations. Mature leaves develop fenestrations and lose the silver. Different juvenile appearance entirely.
Mini monstera
Smaller plant with deeply pinnately-cut leaves (not closed-hole fenestrations) that look like tiny M. deliciosa. Different genus entirely; same vining habit.
Care
Light
Bright indirect — east window or 1–2 m back from a south window.
Place 1–2 m back from a south or west window with a sheer curtain, or directly in front of an east window. Direct midday sun scorches the leaves. Below 6,000 lux the plant produces small leaves with few fenestrations and grows leggy with long internodes. In Nordic winters most apartments fall below the threshold for sustained leaf development; a full-spectrum LED at 12 hours/day from October through March prevents winter stretching.
Seasonal: Move closer to windows in winter; pull back in summer.
Water
When the top 2–3 cm of soil is dry — every 7–10 days.
Water thoroughly until water runs from the drainage holes, then empty the saucer. Allow the top 2–3 cm to dry between waterings. Adansonii is more drought-tolerant than most aroids — it droops dramatically when thirsty, then perks up within hours of rewatering. Soggy soil causes root rot; the plant prefers a wet-dry cycle to constant moisture.
Seasonal: Reduce frequency to every 10–14 days in winter.
Soil
Standard aroid mix — equal parts potting soil, perlite, and orchid bark.
Use a standard aroid mix: 1:1:1 potting soil, coarse perlite, and orchid bark. The mix should drain freely but retain some moisture between waterings. A handful of horticultural charcoal helps in larger pots.
Humidity
50–70 % preferred — tolerates 40 % with minor edge browning.
Adansonii is among the more humidity-tolerant tropical vining aroids — ordinary apartment humidity (40–55 %) is acceptable. Higher humidity gives the largest, most heavily-fenestrated leaves. In dry Nordic winter air group with other plants or run a humidifier.
Temperature
18–27 °C; damage below 13 °C.
Tropical species; does not tolerate cold draughts or temperatures below 13 °C. Cold exposure causes leaf darkening and drop. Keep clear of unheated entryways.
Fertilizer
Half-strength balanced liquid feed every 4–6 weeks in growing season.
A balanced liquid fertiliser (NPK 10-10-10 or 20-20-20) at half label rate, every 4–6 weeks from April through September. Adansonii is a heavy feeder for an aroid — it grows fast and responds well to consistent feeding. Flush the soil thoroughly every 3 months.
Seasonal: No feeding from October through March.
Pruning
Pinch back leggy stems to encourage branching and bushier growth.
Adansonii grows long quickly. Pinch the tip of any leggy stem back to a node with a leaf to encourage branching. Cut back any reverted (all-green) stems on variegated plants. Save the cuttings — they root easily. Wear gloves — sap contains calcium oxalate raphides.
Repotting
Every 1–2 years in spring; tolerates being slightly pot-bound.
Move up by a single pot size when roots fill the pot. Spring is best, before the main growth flush. A moss pole or trellis added at potting time is one of the highest-impact decisions for adansonii — poled plants produce dramatically larger, more fenestrated leaves than trailing plants.
Stem cuttings — node cuttings
easy~Roots in 2–4 weeksThe reliable method. Cut the stem at a node with sterile scissors, including 1 leaf above the node and an aerial root if present. Wear gloves. Place in water, sphagnum moss, or aroid mix at 22–25 °C with bright indirect light. Roots emerge in 2–4 weeks. Pot up once roots are 3–5 cm long. Adansonii is one of the easiest aroids to propagate — even short cuttings root readily.
Air layering
easy~Roots in 3–6 weeksFor larger plants where you want a guaranteed-rooted top before cutting. Make a shallow upward cut just below a node, dust with rooting hormone, wrap with damp sphagnum moss inside a clear plastic sleeve, and seal both ends. Roots become visible through the moss in 3–6 weeks; cut below the new root mass and pot up.
Cultivars
'Wide form'
Most common in Nordic trade. Broader oval leaves with relatively few large oval fenestrations. The 'plain' Monstera adansonii most people buy.
'Narrow form' / 'Friedrichsthalii'
Longer, narrower lance-shaped leaves with more numerous smaller holes. Sometimes treated as a separate species (M. friedrichsthalii) in older literature.
'Variegata'
Chimeric variegate with cream/white sectors. Rare and pricey; produces 'half-moon' and 'mint' forms with different variegation patterns. Reverts readily without bright light.
'Mint Variegata'
Sport with pale mint-green variegation rather than cream-white. Even rarer than the cream variegated form.
Common problems
Leaves never develop fenestrations
Symptom
New leaves emerge oval and solid; no holes appear even on mature plants.
Cause
Insufficient light, OR the plant is too young, OR it is trailing rather than climbing. Adansonii produces juvenile-form unfenestrated leaves indefinitely if it never climbs.
Fix
Add a moss pole or trellis. Tie the stem against the pole at multiple points so it climbs upward — once aerial roots latch onto the pole, the plant 'reads' the contact cue and starts producing larger, more heavily fenestrated leaves. Combined with brighter light (12,000+ lux), this transforms the plant within 4–8 leaf cycles. Trailing plants can produce occasional fenestrated leaves but never reliably.
Yellow leaves dropping
Symptom
Lower leaves yellow uniformly and drop; sometimes multiple leaves at once.
Cause
Most often overwatering. Adansonii is one of the more rot-prone vining aroids in cool soggy soil.
Fix
Check drainage and let the top 2–3 cm dry between waterings. Inspect the roots if symptoms persist — healthy roots are pale and firm; rotted roots are dark, soft, and smelly. Cut away any rotted material and repot in fresh well-draining mix. Take healthy stem cuttings as a backup.
Leggy stems with widely-spaced leaves
Symptom
Long stems with internodes 8–15 cm apart and small leaves; plant looks straggly.
Cause
Insufficient light. The plant stretches toward the light source and produces fewer, smaller leaves.
Fix
Move closer to a brighter window or add a grow light. Pinch the leggy stem back to a healthy leaf to encourage branching. Use the cuttings to thicken the plant — several short cuttings rooted into the same pot create a fuller specimen than waiting for a single leggy stem to recover.
Brown crispy leaf tips
Symptom
Tips and edges of leaves turn pale brown and crispy.
Cause
Low humidity, tap water mineral buildup, or under-watering.
Fix
Group with other plants or run a humidifier near the plant; aim for 50 %+ ambient humidity. Switch to filtered or rainwater. Trim browned tips at an angle.
Full guide: Why Are My Plant's Leaf Tips Turning Brown? Diagnosis GuideTiny flying insects around the pot
Symptom
Small dark flies hovering near the soil surface; rise when the plant is watered or disturbed.
Cause
Fungus gnats. Larvae live in damp soil and adults emerge from the surface; common when adansonii is over-watered or in a heavy mix.
Fix
Allow the top 3–4 cm of soil to dry thoroughly between waterings to break the larval cycle. A 1 cm topdressing of horticultural sand or fine grit prevents adults laying new eggs. Yellow sticky traps catch flying adults. Bottle traps with apple cider vinegar work too. Severe cases can be treated with a Bacillus thuringiensis var. israelensis ('mosquito bits') soil drench.
- Spider mites (dry rooms)
- Mealybugs
- Thrips
- Scale insects
- Fungus gnats
- Root rot (overwatering)
- Bacterial leaf spot (Erwinia)
Toxicity & safety
Chewing the plant releases needle-sharp calcium oxalate raphides into the mouth, causing intense burning, swelling of the lips and tongue, drooling, and difficulty speaking. Sap on skin causes contact dermatitis.
Mechanism: Insoluble calcium oxalate raphides physically penetrate mucosa.
Monstera toxicity — NCBI / PFAFOral irritation, intense burning, drooling, vomiting, difficulty swallowing. Severe airway swelling possible (rare).
Mechanism: Insoluble calcium oxalate raphides physically penetrate oral mucosa.
Monstera Adansonii — ASPCA Toxic and Non-Toxic PlantsOral irritation, intense burning, drooling, vomiting, difficulty swallowing.
Mechanism: Insoluble calcium oxalate raphides physically penetrate oral mucosa.
Monstera Adansonii — ASPCA Toxic and Non-Toxic PlantsThe 'real Monstera obliqua' problem is one of houseplant horticulture's most enduring identification mysteries. For decades, plants sold as 'Monstera obliqua' in the trade were actually Monstera adansonii. True M. obliqua has paper-thin leaves with so much fenestration that the leaves are 50–90 % hole, produces creeping stolons that adansonii does not, and is essentially unknown in commercial horticulture. The Peruvian form ('M. obliqua Peru') sometimes sold for thousands of euros at the 2021 aroid bubble peak is also disputed by taxonomists. If you see 'Monstera obliqua' selling for less than €500, assume it is adansonii — a beautiful, easier, and honest plant.
Frequently asked · 5
Is Monstera adansonii safe for cats and dogs?+
No — ASPCA lists Monstera adansonii (under the listing 'Cutleaf Philodendron') as toxic to cats, dogs, and horses. All parts contain calcium oxalate raphides — needle-sharp crystals that physically penetrate the oral mucosa when chewed, causing intense burning, drooling, vomiting, and swelling of the lips and tongue. If your pet chews the plant, rinse their mouth with cold water and contact a vet. Keep well out of reach.
Why doesn't my Monstera adansonii have holes in its leaves?+
Three possible reasons. (1) Insufficient light — below 8,000 lux the plant produces juvenile-form unfenestrated leaves. (2) The plant is trailing rather than climbing — adansonii responds to climbing with much larger, more heavily fenestrated leaves; trailing plants stay in juvenile form indefinitely. (3) The plant is young or growing too fast — early leaves on any plant are smaller and less fenestrated. Fix: add a moss pole, train the stem against it, and provide bright indirect light. Within 4–8 leaf cycles the plant should produce noticeably larger, fenestrated leaves.
Monstera adansonii vs Monstera deliciosa — which is which?+
Both are vining tropical aroids with fenestrated leaves, but the leaf differences are clear at maturity. Adansonii has OVAL fenestrations (closed holes) that never extend to the leaf margin; leaves are 30–50 cm at maturity, asymmetric, with a downward-curving tip. Deliciosa has DEEP SPLITS (pinnately cut from the margin inward); leaves are 40–90 cm at maturity, more symmetric, on shorter internodes. Adansonii is more aggressively vining; deliciosa is more self-supporting. Adansonii is also fast-growing and forgiving; deliciosa grows huge and takes more space.
Is my Monstera obliqua actually adansonii?+
Almost certainly yes. True Monstera obliqua has paper-thin leaves where 50–90 % of the leaf area is fenestration (more hole than leaf), produces creeping stolons that adansonii does not, and is essentially unknown in mainstream commercial horticulture. If you bought a plant labelled 'M. obliqua' for under €500, it is overwhelmingly likely to be M. adansonii (specifically the narrow-form 'Friedrichsthalii' variant, which has narrower leaves than wide-form adansonii and can superficially resemble obliqua photos). Genuine obliqua is rare in collections worldwide. Adansonii is a great plant in its own right — there is no shame in owning one.
How do I propagate Monstera adansonii?+
Stem node cuttings. Cut the stem at a node with sterile scissors, including 1 leaf above the node and an aerial root if present. Wear gloves — the sap is irritating. Place the cutting in water, sphagnum moss, or aroid mix at 22–25 °C with bright indirect light. Roots emerge in 2–4 weeks. Pot up once roots are 3–5 cm long. Adansonii is one of the easiest aroids to propagate — even short cuttings without aerial roots usually root within a month. Air layering also works well for larger plants.
Sources
- Monstera adansonii — Kew Plants of the World Online
- Cutleaf Philodendron (Monstera adansonii) — ASPCA Toxic and Non-Toxic Plants
- Monstera adansonii — Royal Horticultural Society
- Monstera adansonii — Missouri Botanical Garden Plant Finder
- Monstera obliqua vs adansonii — International Aroid Society review