Identity & taxonomy
- Scientific name
- Crassula ovata (Mill.) Druce
- Family
- Crassulaceae
- Genus
- Crassula
- Order
- Saxifragales
- Wikidata
- Q133127
- Crassula argentea Thunb.
- Crassula portulacea Lam.
- Cotyledon ovata Mill. (basionym)
- Jade planten
- Money treeen
- Money planten
- Lucky planten
- Friendship treeen
- Paddenplantsv
- Pengingträdsv
- Pengetreno
- Pengetræda
- Rahapuufi
- Pfennigbaumde
- Geldbaumde
Eastern Cape (South Africa) · KwaZulu-Natal (South Africa) · Mpumalanga (South Africa) · Mozambique
How to identify it
Growth habit. Slow-growing woody shrub with a thickening trunk that branches dichotomously (each growing tip splits in two). Every branch carries paired opposite fleshy leaves at its tip. With age, old lower leaves drop and leave prominent leaf scars along smooth grey-green bark, producing the classic miniature-tree silhouette.
Leaves. Leaves are opposite, obovate to elliptical, 3–9 cm long and 1.5–4 cm wide, with a rounded tip and a tapering base. Colour is glossy jade-green with a waxy bloom; leaf margins flush red to deep burgundy in strong light. Leaves are thick, fleshy, and turgid when well-hydrated; they wrinkle noticeably when under-watered.
Flowers. Small five-petalled star-shaped flowers 1 cm across, white to pale pink, borne in dense rounded terminal clusters in winter. Flowering requires a mature plant, bright light, and a cool dry autumn (15–18 °C, minimal water) — a cue most indoor growers can accidentally provide just by putting the plant near a cool window and forgetting it.
- Opposite, paired, thick paddle-shaped leaves — any single joint bears two leaves 180° apart.
- Woody trunk that thickens visibly with age — one of very few succulent houseplants that forms real bark.
- Dichotomous branching: every shoot tip forks into two, producing a symmetric miniature-tree architecture.
- Red-margined leaves in strong light — a stress response that distinguishes well-lit jade from its shade-grown, all-green form.
- Snaps cleanly at the branch joint when a leaf or stem is bent — the fracture point is fibrous and brittle rather than tearing.
Commonly confused with
Dwarf jade / elephant bush
Similar silhouette but leaves are much smaller (1–2 cm) and borne alternately along reddish stems, not in opposite pairs on green joints. Grows faster and tolerates more shade.
Silver jade plant
Blue-grey rather than jade-green leaves, often with red flecks across the blade. Larger overall (up to 2 m indoors), and leaves have a distinctly powdery farinose surface.
Baby rubber plant
Tropical non-succulent with softer, non-glossy leaves. Stems are herbaceous and never develop a woody trunk. Completely unrelated (Piperaceae, not Crassulaceae) despite the similar leaf outline.
Care
Light
Very bright indirect light; 2–4 hours of direct sun is ideal.
Crassula ovata is a full-sun plant in its native habitat and tolerates more direct indoor sun than almost any other common houseplant. Place directly in a south or west window; morning sun on an east window works but produces a greener, less red-margined plant. Insufficient light produces elongated stems, larger all-green leaves, and eventual leaf drop.
Seasonal: In Nordic latitudes above ~55°N, move the plant into the brightest window for winter. Supplemental grow lights are helpful but not as critical as for most tropicals — a well-established jade tolerates a long dark rest without damage.
Water
Deep soak when the top half of the pot is dry; every 2–3 weeks in summer.
Water thoroughly until runoff, then let the top 3–5 cm dry before even thinking about watering again. Check the weight of the pot — a pot that still feels heavy does not need water. The leaves themselves are a gauge: plump turgid leaves mean enough water, slightly soft wrinkled leaves mean time to water. Overwatering is the single most common killer; a jade plant can go a month between waterings without harm.
Seasonal: Cut watering to once every 4–6 weeks from November to February. A cool dry winter is the trigger for flowering.
Soil
Fast-draining gritty cactus/succulent mix.
A mix of 2 parts commercial cactus/succulent soil to 1 part coarse perlite or pumice provides adequate drainage. Adding 1 part horticultural grit improves stability for taller, top-heavy specimens. Terracotta pots dry faster than plastic and are strongly preferred.
Humidity
Any — very tolerant of dry air.
Normal Nordic indoor humidity (20–40 %) is perfect. Jade plants actively prefer dry air to humid air; prolonged high humidity encourages powdery mildew on the waxy leaf surface.
Temperature
18–24 °C typical; tolerates wider range.
Tolerates summer temperatures up to 35 °C and brief winter dips to 5 °C without damage. A cool winter rest at 10–15 °C with minimal water promotes flowering and discourages etiolation in low winter light.
Fertilizer
Dilute balanced feed once in spring and once in midsummer.
A balanced NPK (3-1-2 or 20-20-20) at quarter the label rate twice a year is sufficient. Over-feeding produces fast, weak, elongated growth — the opposite of the compact woody form most growers want. Never feed in autumn or winter.
Pruning
Prune after flowering in spring to shape and encourage branching.
Snip each shoot tip cleanly just above a pair of leaves to encourage the branch to fork below the cut. Jade plants respond to pruning like bonsai — branches thicken, and old branches can be shaped into tree forms over years. Every pruned tip is a propagation cutting; let the cut end callus for 2–3 days before planting.
Repotting
Every 3–4 years, in spring, into the same pot or one size up.
Jade plants prefer being slightly pot-bound — a cramped root system limits top growth and keeps the plant compact. Wait until roots emerge from drainage holes or the top of the soil. Use fresh gritty mix and let the plant dry for 3–5 days after repotting before watering.
Leaf cutting
easy~2–4 weeks for roots; 3–6 months for a new plantTwist a healthy leaf off cleanly at the base so the whole petiole is intact. Let the cut callus for 3–5 days in a dry shaded spot, then lay flat on dry cactus mix. Mist lightly every 5–7 days. Roots and a tiny plantlet form at the base of the leaf; the original leaf eventually shrivels and feeds the new plant.
Stem cutting
easy~3–6 weeksCut a branch 10–15 cm long with at least two pairs of leaves. Let the cut callus for 3–5 days, then insert the cut end 2–3 cm deep into dry cactus mix. Wait 7 days before the first light watering. Faster and more reliable than leaf propagation when you want a presentable plant within a year.
Cultivars
'Hobbit'
Tubular, finger-shaped leaves that curl back on themselves. Slow-growing, very compact.
'Gollum'
Similar to 'Hobbit' but the leaves form hollow trumpet tips with a small red-rimmed opening. Sometimes sold as 'Shrek's ears'.
'Hummel's Sunset'
Cultivar with golden-yellow leaves edged in red when grown in strong light. Perennial Plant Association 1998 Plant of the Year.
'Tricolor' / 'Variegata'
Green leaves with cream-white sectoral stripes, often pink-flushed at the edges in full sun. Slower than the straight species.
Common problems
Shrivelled, soft leaves
Symptom
Leaves lose firmness, wrinkle, sometimes yellow and drop.
Cause
Two opposite causes: under-watering (leaves wrinkle but stay firm-feeling) or rot (leaves go translucent and mushy). Check the soil before acting.
Fix
If soil is bone-dry and leaves are merely wrinkled: water thoroughly, and pearls-style rehydration takes 3–5 days. If soil is wet and leaves are mushy: unpot immediately, cut away rotted roots, let the base callus for a week, then repot in fresh dry cactus mix.
Full guide: Root Rot in Houseplants: How to Identify, Save, and Prevent ItLeaves dropping when touched
Symptom
Leaves fall off at the slightest contact.
Cause
Cold damage (if leaves are bluish or blackened at the base), sudden temperature change after moving the plant, or pot-shock after repotting.
Fix
Move away from cold window glass in winter. Leave the plant undisturbed for several weeks after any move — new leaves will grow to replace dropped ones, and the existing branches remain viable.
Stretched, leggy stems with widely spaced leaves
Symptom
Long thin stems with small pale leaves spaced far apart.
Cause
Insufficient light — the plant is etiolating.
Fix
Move to a sunnier spot (ideally a south window) or add a grow light. Prune stretched stems back hard — the plant re-branches from below the cut and new growth under better light is compact.
Full guide: Understanding Light Levels for Indoor PlantsWhite cottony clumps at leaf joints
Symptom
White fluffy patches in the axils between leaves and stems; sticky residue below.
Cause
Mealybugs — one of the most common jade plant pests.
Fix
Dab each cluster with a cotton bud dipped in 70 % isopropyl alcohol, or spray with insecticidal soap. Repeat every 5–7 days for 3–4 weeks to catch new hatchlings. Isolate the plant until clear.
Full guide: Mealybugs on Houseplants: Identification and Treatment- Mealybugs
- Scale
- Aphids
- Spider mites
- Root rot (Pythium, Phytophthora)
- Powdery mildew
- Black ring virus
Toxicity & safety
Ingestion causes mild oral irritation, nausea, and occasional vomiting. Sap can cause contact dermatitis in sensitive individuals.
Mechanism: Exact toxic compound in Crassula ovata is unidentified but presumed to be a combination of saponins and irritant glycosides typical of Crassulaceae.
Crassula ovata — Missouri Botanical Garden Plant FinderVomiting, depression, incoordination (ataxia), and lethargy after ingestion. Clinical cases can include bradycardia in larger ingestions.
Jade Plant — ASPCA Toxic and Non-Toxic PlantsVomiting, depression, and incoordination after ingestion. Larger ingestions can cause slow heart rate and collapse; consult a vet for any pronounced symptoms.
Jade Plant — ASPCA Toxic and Non-Toxic PlantsThe jade plant is one of the longest-lived houseplants in existence — specimens over 100 years old are documented in botanical gardens, and a single plant in a stable home can easily outlive its owner. The oldest known cultivated jade plant, at Denver Botanic Gardens, was propagated from a cutting taken in the 1950s and is still producing new growth.
Frequently asked · 5
Is a jade plant toxic to cats and dogs?+
Yes — ASPCA lists Crassula ovata as toxic to cats and dogs. Ingestion causes vomiting, depression, and incoordination; larger ingestions can cause a slow heart rate in dogs. Keep the plant out of reach of chewy pets, or choose a pet-safe alternative like Peperomia obtusifolia with a similar silhouette.
How often should I water a jade plant?+
Deeply every 2–3 weeks in summer, dropping to once every 4–6 weeks from November to February. Let the top half of the soil dry between waterings, and check the leaves — plump firm leaves mean enough water, slightly soft wrinkled leaves mean time to water. Overwatering is the most common cause of death; a jade plant will forgive drought for weeks.
Why does my jade plant have red edges on the leaves?+
Red leaf margins are a normal stress response to strong light — the plant produces anthocyanin pigments to protect the leaf from excess UV. It's a sign of a healthy, well-lit jade plant, not a problem. Shade-grown specimens are entirely green; if you want red margins, move the plant into direct sun for at least half the day.
How do I make my jade plant branch?+
Prune each shoot tip cleanly just above a pair of leaves — the plant responds by forking into two branches below the cut. Repeated pruning over years produces dense, bonsai-style specimens. The best time is early spring, just before active growth resumes. Every pruned tip is also a propagation cutting.
How do I propagate a jade plant from a leaf?+
Twist a healthy leaf off cleanly at the base so the petiole stays intact. Let it callus in a dry shaded spot for 3–5 days, then lay flat on dry cactus mix and mist lightly every 5–7 days. A tiny plantlet emerges at the base of the leaf in 3–6 months and eventually replaces the parent leaf as it shrivels.