Marantaceae

Tricolor stromanthe

Stromanthe thalia 'Triostar' (Vell.) J.M.A.Braga (formerly Stromanthe sanguinea Sond.)

Definitive Stromanthe sanguinea 'Triostar' care guide: bright indirect light to keep the pink variegation, high humidity, why the leaves curl, propagation by division, and ASPCA-confirmed pet-safe status. The Marantaceae family's most dramatic variegated cultivar.

Published Verified
A Stromanthe sanguinea 'Triostar' plant showing long lance-shaped leaves variegated with cream, pink, and green stripes, with bright magenta-pink leaf undersides visible
Stromanthe 'Triostar' — diagnostic combination of cream/pink/green upper-surface variegation and bright magenta-pink leaf undersides. The undersides are especially visible when leaves fold up at night.
Photo: Hardyplants (Paul Henjum) · CC0 1.0

Identity & taxonomy

Scientific name
Stromanthe thalia 'Triostar' (Vell.) J.M.A.Braga (formerly Stromanthe sanguinea Sond.)
Family
Marantaceae
Genus
Stromanthe
Order
Zingiberales
IUCN status
Least Concern (LC)
Wikidata
Q15517391
Synonyms
  • Stromanthe sanguinea 'Triostar' (the still-dominant trade name; the species was transferred to Stromanthe thalia in recent POWO/Kew revisions)
  • Stromanthe sanguinea 'Tricolor' (older trade name, same plant)
  • Maranta thalia Vell. (basionym)
Common names
  • Tricolor stromantheen
  • Triostaren
  • Stromanthe Triostaren
  • Magenta triostaren
  • Never Never plant (auct.)en
  • Stromanthe Triostarsv
  • Stromanthe Triostarno
  • Stromanthe Triostarda
  • Stromanthe Triostarfi
  • Tricolor-Stromanthede
Native range

Brazilian Atlantic rainforest — coastal and inland forests of the Brazilian states of Bahia, Espírito Santo, Minas Gerais, Rio de Janeiro, and São Paulo

How to identify it

Growth habit. Clump-forming rhizomatous perennial. Leaves rise individually from a thick fleshy underground rhizome on long petioles, forming a substantial clump as the rhizome spreads laterally. Each leaf has a swollen joint (the 'pulvinus') at the petiole-blade junction; this is the hinge that drives the species' diurnal leaf movement (nyctinasty). Mature plants slowly produce daughter shoots from the rhizome — these can be separated for propagation. Indoors the plant maintains a leafy upright clump habit; in the wild it produces tall flower spikes with bright red-pink bracts.

Leaves. Long lance-shaped leaves 20–40 cm long and 8–15 cm wide on petioles 20–40 cm long. Upper surface is dramatically variegated with irregular streaks and stripes of dark green, pale green, cream-white, and bright pink, with pattern varying leaf-to-leaf. Lower surface is a uniform bright magenta-pink — visible especially at night when leaves fold up vertically. Leaves are held semi-erect during the day and fold to fully vertical at night, displaying the magenta undersides; this rhythm is regulated by the pulvinus joint and operates on a circadian cycle.

Flowers. Tall flower spikes (40–80 cm) bearing clusters of bright red-pink bracts and small white or red true flowers. Indoor flowering is uncommon — the plant focuses energy on its showy foliage. When it does flower indoors, the spikes appear in spring.

Distinguishing features
  • Dramatic cream/pink/green variegation on long lance-shaped leaves.
  • Bright magenta-pink lower leaf surfaces (visible especially at night).
  • Diurnal leaf movement (nyctinasty) — leaves fold vertically at night.
  • Pulvinus joint at the petiole-blade junction, which drives the leaf folding.
  • Pet-safe: ASPCA non-toxic to cats and dogs.

Commonly confused with

Not the same as

Pinstripe calathea

Calathea ornata

Same family (Marantaceae), similar lance-shaped leaves and nyctinasty. Differences: ornata has cream/pink pinstripe markings rather than bold variegated streaks, and the underside is dark purple-green rather than magenta-pink.

Not the same as

Round-leaf calathea

Calathea orbifolia

Same family, but rounded leaves with silvery-grey banded patterns rather than streaked variegation. No pink at all. Plain green undersides.

Not the same as

Red-veined prayer plant

Maranta leuconeura 'Tricolor' / 'Erythroneura'

Same family, similar nyctinasty. Differences: Maranta has small oval leaves with fishbone-pattern dark blotches and red veins on a green ground, on a much shorter trailing-spreading habit. The classic 'prayer plant' that folds dramatically at night.

Not the same as

Ctenanthe / fishbone prayer plant

Ctenanthe burle-marxii

Same family. Pale grey-green leaves with dark green fishbone bands on the upper side and burgundy undersides. Different patterning, less pink content overall.

Care

Light

Bright indirect — east window or 1–2 m back from a south window.

10,000–18,000 lux

Place 1–2 m back from a south or west window with a sheer curtain, or directly in front of an east window. Direct midday sun bleaches the pink variegation to pale orange and scorches the leaves. Below 8,000 lux the plant produces leaves with weaker variegation and is more prone to reversion to plain green. In Nordic winters most apartments fall below the maintenance threshold; a full-spectrum LED at 12 hours/day from October through March keeps the variegation crisp.

Seasonal: Move closer to windows in winter; pull back in summer.

Water

When the top 2–3 cm of soil is dry — every 5–10 days in growth.

Water thoroughly until water runs from the drainage holes, then empty the saucer. Allow the top 2–3 cm to dry between waterings. Stromanthe is fussy about water quality — chlorinated tap water causes leaf-edge browning within weeks, and hard water leaves visible mineral spots on the leaves over time. Use filtered water, distilled water, or rainwater consistently. Room temperature only; cold tap water shocks the rhizome.

Seasonal: Reduce frequency to every 10–14 days in winter.

Soil

Moisture-retaining but free-draining mix — peat or coco coir based.

pH 5.5–6.5

Use a moisture-retaining but free-draining mix: 50 % peat or coco coir, 25 % perlite, 25 % orchid bark. The mix should drain freely but stay slightly moist between waterings. Stromanthe is more peat-loving than most Araceae — it is happiest in a mix that retains water without becoming soggy.

Humidity

60–80 % required — struggles below 50 %.

Among the most humidity-demanding mainstream houseplants. Below 50 % the leaves develop crispy edges and curl inward; below 40 % the plant rapidly declines. In dry Nordic winter air a humidifier running near the plant is effectively required. A glass cabinet or grow tent provides the most stable environment for serious specimens. Misting helps briefly but cannot maintain the ambient humidity the plant needs.

Temperature

18–27 °C; damage below 15 °C.

18–27 °C

Tropical Atlantic-rainforest species; does not tolerate cold draughts or temperatures below 15 °C. Cold exposure causes leaf darkening and abscission. Keep clear of unheated entryways, away from cold glass on winter nights, and away from radiator drafts that desiccate the leaves.

Fertilizer

Quarter-to-half-strength balanced liquid feed every 4–6 weeks in growing season.

A balanced liquid fertiliser (NPK 10-10-10 or 20-20-20) at quarter to half label rate, every 4–6 weeks from April through September. Stromanthe is salt-sensitive — overfeeding causes immediate leaf-edge burn. Flush the soil thoroughly every 2 months to prevent salt buildup, which especially damages the variegated tissue.

Seasonal: No feeding from October through March.

Pruning

Remove old yellowing leaves at the petiole base; cut off any reverted (all-green) growth.

Cut yellowing leaves cleanly at the petiole base with sterile scissors. If a stem reverts entirely to plain green, cut it off at the rhizome — reverted growth is faster and will crowd out variegated growth. Pet-safe sap means no special PPE is needed beyond ordinary hygiene, though sterile scissors prevent disease spread between plants.

Repotting

Every 2–3 years in spring; tolerates being slightly pot-bound.

Move up by a single pot size when the rhizome fills the pot and the clump becomes crowded. Spring is best, just as new growth resumes. Repotting is also the right moment to divide the rhizome for propagation. After repotting, water thoroughly once and then keep on the slightly-dry side for 1–2 weeks while the disturbed roots recover.

Propagation

Rhizome division

easy~Established in 4–8 weeks

The reliable method. In spring, unpot a mature plant and gently brush soil from the rhizome to expose the natural divisions — places where the rhizome has produced a clump with its own roots and leaves. Separate divisions with a clean sharp knife. Pot each division in fresh moisture-retaining mix. Keep at 22–25 °C with bright indirect light and 70 %+ humidity for the first month while new roots establish.

Stem cuttings (with rhizome attached)

moderate~Roots in 4–8 weeks

Less reliable than division. Take a stem with a small attached rhizome section, ideally with at least one leaf. Plant in damp moisture-retaining mix and keep humid. Plain leaf cuttings without rhizome material do not root.

Cultivars

'Triostar' / 'Tricolor'

The cultivar this entry covers. Long lance-shaped leaves with irregular cream/pink/green variegation on the upper surface and bright magenta-pink undersides.

'Stripestar'

Plain dark green leaves with cream pinstripes along lateral veins. Less dramatic than 'Triostar' but more shade-tolerant. Less common in Nordic trade.

'Magicstar' / 'Multicolor'

Less stable variegated cultivar with even more pink content than 'Triostar'. Slower-growing and reverts more readily.

Common problems

Crispy brown leaf edges and curled leaves

Symptom

Leaf edges go pale brown and crispy; leaves curl inward along the midrib instead of opening flat; new leaves emerge with edge damage already present.

Cause

Low humidity (the dominant cause), tap water mineral buildup, or fluoride/chlorine sensitivity. Stromanthe is one of the most water-quality-sensitive mainstream houseplants.

Fix

Run a humidifier near the plant; aim for 70 %+ ambient humidity. A glass cabinet is the long-term solution. Switch to filtered, distilled, or rainwater. Never use cold tap water. Flush the soil thoroughly every 2 months. Trim browned tips at an angle for cosmetic effect; new leaves emerge clean once conditions improve.

Full guide: Why Are My Plant's Leaf Tips Turning Brown? Diagnosis Guide

Leaves staying folded vertical during the day

Symptom

Leaves do not open horizontally during daylight; they remain folded up showing the magenta undersides as if it were night.

Cause

Underwatering. Stromanthe folds its leaves under stress as a water-conservation response. Other contributors: insufficient light (the plant uses light cues to time the leaf opening), or sudden temperature drop.

Fix

Water thoroughly. Check that the plant is getting sufficient bright indirect light during the day. If conditions are good, the leaves should open within 24–48 hours. Persistent daytime folding indicates ongoing stress — review humidity, watering, and light.

Variegation fading or reverting

Symptom

New leaves emerge with less pink and cream; existing variegated leaves remain unchanged.

Cause

Insufficient light. Pink variegation is highly light-dependent.

Fix

Move to brighter indirect light or add a full-spectrum grow light at 12 hours/day. Cut off any fully-reverted (all-green) shoot at the rhizome — reverted growth is faster and will crowd out variegated growth. New variegated growth typically resumes within 2–3 months in better light.

Full guide: Why Is My Variegated Plant Losing Its Variegation?

Yellow leaves dropping

Symptom

Lower leaves yellow uniformly and drop; sometimes multiple leaves at once.

Cause

Most often overwatering or root rot; sometimes sudden cold exposure.

Fix

Check drainage. Inspect roots if symptoms persist — healthy roots are pale and firm; rotted roots are dark, soft, and smelly. Cut away rotted material with sterile scissors and repot in fresh moisture-retaining mix. Move plant away from cold drafts and windows.

Webbing or stippled leaves

Symptom

Fine pale stippling on leaves; very fine webbing under leaves; pink fades.

Cause

Spider mites. Marantaceae are a preferred spider mite target in dry winter air.

Fix

Rinse the plant thoroughly under a tepid shower, paying attention to leaf undersides. Treat with insecticidal soap weekly for 3 weeks. Raise humidity. Quarantine until cleared.

Full guide: Spider Mites on Houseplants: Identify Webbing, Damage, and How to Kill Them
Common pests
  • Spider mites (the dominant pest in dry rooms)
  • Thrips
  • Mealybugs
  • Fungus gnats
Common diseases
  • Root rot (overwatering)
  • Leaf spot (Helminthosporium / Drechslera)
  • Bacterial leaf spot

Toxicity & safety

humans
non toxic

No reported toxicity. Considered safe for incidental contact.

Stromanthe — Plants For A Future
cats
non toxic

ASPCA lists Stromanthe as non-toxic to cats. No expected oral or systemic effects from chewing.

Stromanthe — ASPCA Toxic and Non-Toxic Plants
dogs
non toxic

ASPCA lists Stromanthe as non-toxic to dogs. No expected oral or systemic effects from chewing.

Stromanthe — ASPCA Toxic and Non-Toxic Plants
Did you know

Stromanthe 'Triostar' demonstrates one of the most theatrical examples of plant nyctinasty — the diurnal folding of leaves driven by the pulvinus joint at the base of each blade. As light fades in the evening, water pressure changes inside the pulvinus cells fold the leaves upward into vertical 'praying' position, exposing the bright magenta undersides. At dawn the leaves unfold to horizontal again. Watching a healthy Triostar perform this rhythm over the course of a week is the closest most apartment dwellers come to seeing a plant 'move'. The mechanism is shared across Marantaceae (Calathea, Maranta, Ctenanthe, Stromanthe) but Triostar's bold pink underside makes it the most visible.

Frequently asked · 5

Is Stromanthe 'Triostar' safe for cats and dogs?+

Yes — ASPCA confirms Stromanthe as non-toxic to cats and dogs. This is one of the few mainstream variegated houseplants that is genuinely pet-safe, making it a strong choice for households with chewing pets who want dramatic foliage without the calcium oxalate toxicity of philodendrons, monsteras, and other Araceae. Mild stomach upset is possible if a pet eats large quantities of any plant, but Triostar carries no specific toxicity concerns.

Why are my Stromanthe Triostar leaves curling and the edges crispy?+

Two main causes. (1) Low humidity — Stromanthe is one of the most humidity-demanding mainstream houseplants and shows curling and edge browning below 50 % humidity. Run a humidifier; ideally a glass cabinet for 70 %+. (2) Water quality — chlorinated/fluoridated tap water and hard water mineral buildup damage the leaves rapidly. Switch to filtered, distilled, or rainwater consistently. Other contributors: cold drafts, low light, and salt buildup from over-fertilising. Trim browned edges at an angle for cosmetic effect; new leaves emerge clean once conditions improve.

Why are the leaves on my Stromanthe Triostar staying folded up during the day?+

Stress. Stromanthe folds its leaves vertically at night as part of its diurnal nyctinasty rhythm, but it also folds them under stress as a water-conservation response. The most common cause of daytime folding is underwatering. Other contributors: insufficient light (the plant uses light cues to time leaf opening), sudden temperature drop, or recent transplanting. Water thoroughly, check light levels, and the leaves should open within 24–48 hours. Persistent daytime folding indicates ongoing stress.

Stromanthe Triostar vs Calathea — what's the difference?+

Both are in the family Marantaceae, both have nyctinasty (leaves fold at night), and both are humidity-demanding. Differences: Stromanthe Triostar has dramatic cream/pink/green variegation with magenta undersides, lance-shaped leaves on tall petioles, and a clump-forming upright habit. Calatheas have more diverse leaf patterns (silver banded in orbifolia, fishbone in lancifolia, pinstripe in ornata), generally darker undersides (purple to dark green), and either lance or oval leaf shapes depending on species. Care is similar across both genera — bright indirect, very high humidity, filtered water, warm temperatures. Both are pet-safe according to ASPCA.

How do I propagate Stromanthe Triostar?+

Rhizome division. In spring, unpot a mature plant and gently brush soil from the rhizome to expose natural divisions — places where the rhizome has produced a clump with its own roots and leaves. Separate divisions with a clean sharp knife. Pot each division in fresh moisture-retaining mix. Keep at 22–25 °C with bright indirect light and 70 %+ humidity for the first month while new roots establish. Plain leaf cuttings without rhizome material do not root — Marantaceae cannot be propagated from leaf cuttings the way many succulents can.

Related guides

Sources